Our almost 30-year old garage doors were starting to get warped (note the "smile" at the bottom),
the strut bar cracked, and other issues ... so rather
than wait until we HAD to replace it, we decided to do it proactively. After some research and
driving around various neighborhoods looking at garage doors, we decided on a "plank" design -
a CHI Wood Grain Model 2347 in Dark Oak with top-level windows to let some light into the garage.
We had to replace the garage door openers since they were from before a IR-beam safety system
was required ... and ended up getting Liftmaster 8550's. The belt drive system is really quiet - I can't hear
it go up when the wife comes home! It's a pretty nifty system including Wi-Fi capability
that allows you to check status, get notifications (so I do get notified when the wife shows up!) and even control your garage doors - hopefully hackers on the Internet won't take over
and make it go up & down! ;-)
We went with Laughlin Garage Door (James at 303-884-6222 was great) and his brother Will did a super
job with the install as seen in the time-lapse videos below. As with most home improvement projects,
this will result in some other upgrades such as light fixtures and maybe even some repainting.
Before/After of the Garage Door at various times of the day
After this project, I had a roof/patio leak fixed and put Composite Decking on the patio - click for BIG!
I could have done a better job cutting the boards, but given the tight "workspace", it was difficult with 12' & 16' long boards. The variance was less than an 1/8", which is less than 0.1% ... so not too shabby
I wanted to use fasteners (rather than deck screws) for a "clean" look, but
it was a super tight fit with the 9 boards - just another 1/4" would
have made it a LOT easier. I started away from the house with start/stop
fasteners on the ends and used a prybar to insure the other boards were as close
The "challenge" was the last board next to the house. The easy solution
would have been to use deck screws just on that to keep the ends down and prevent it from moving.
I ended up kludging things by hacksawing the two-sided fasteners (everywhere but the ends) so the only the "2nd" board was clamped down.
I then installed start/stop fasteners at the ends next to the wall, and slid
the board in by going at an angle and then dropping it - needed a little nudge to get seated. Finally, I used a
prybar to move the last board horizontally the last 1/4" against the wall ... and was able to wedge a dremel'ed fastener
to clamp both boards at end. I then repeated that on the other side ... and screwed 'em down. Hopefully I'll
never have to "open" up the deck ... but if I do, the image below shows how to do it! ;-)
Note that the decking is Trex "Saddle" - very
convenient that it was available in-store at Lowe's.